This is an over-engineered mono hangboard pickup for climbing š„
What is a 20 mm edge?
For a 90° angle, itās simple.
For a perfect 90° angle, itās simpleāthe distance (shown in red) is exactly 20 mm.
But a 90° edge is harsh on the skin. Sharp edges concentrate stress at a single point, increasing pain and the chance of skin splitting. Thatās why all popular hangboards have rounded edges, called fillets in CAD.
Edge Fillet: A smooth, curved surface with a constant radius that rounds off a sharp corner or transition between two intersecting faces.
Fillets are usually described by their Edge Radius ā the larger the radius, the rounder the edge.
Unfortunately, there is no universal fillet radius for hangboards. Different brands use different edge radii:
Brand / Board | Edge Depth | Edge Radius | Source |
---|---|---|---|
Tension | 10 mm | 3.175 mm (ā 1/8ā) | Tension Climbing |
Beastmaker | 10 mm | 8 mm | Test4Climbing |
Lattice | 10 mm | 10 mm | Climbing.com |
Note: Needs more data but is hard to find.
Where there is a fillet, the effective edge depth changes. What counts as ācorrectā depth (red lines)?
This might sound negligible, but millimeters matter for climbers.
To objectively define a true edge depth, we must agree on some definitions:
Since thereās no standard definition of Effective Length and Depth, the goal is to propose a mathematically ok-ish definition.
For a 90° angle, itās simple. The red line is the usable edge. Your fingers hang there. The blue line is the unusable edge. Your fingers cannot hang there.
For a perfect right angle, the tangent of the corner is undefined, but if thereās a small radius (0.01 mm), the tangent gradually transitions from horizontal to vertical, with the midway point at 45°.
Based on this, we can define the Effective Length as the distance along the edge up to this midway point of the fillet.
Now that Effective Length is defined, we can calculate Effective Depth.
Use the unit circle as a reference.
Given Edge Radius & Effective Depth, calculate Total Depth:
Set edge_radius (blue) = 8mm
Set effective_depth (dotted) = 20mm
Solve for total_depth (green)
red_line = cos(45) * 8mm
pink_line = edge_radius - red_line
total_depth = effective_depth + pink_line
green = dotted + pink
A one line equation
total_depth = effective_depth + (edge_radius * (1 - cos(45))
total_depth = effective_depth + (edge_radius * (1 - 0.5 ** 0.5))
Python
import math
effective_depth = 20
edge_radius = 8
total_depth = effective_depth + (edge_radius * (1 - 0.5 ** 0.5))
print(total_depth)
# total_depth = 22.34314575050762
Finally, use calculated Total Depth to extrude your mono
Then create your Fillet Radius.
Conclusion:
A 22.343 mm deep mono + 8 mm fillet radius gives exactly 20 mm effective edge depth.